Tuesday, May 20, 2014

From BASEBALL PARKS To ROSA PARKS

        My brother Don and I recently returned from our fourth annual baseball trip.  We are now two-thirds of the way to our goal of seeing regular season games in all the major league baseball fields.  This year we finished up the Eastern Divisions by going South to Atlanta, Miami and Tampa Bay. We also caught up with our favorite college team, Virginia, playing Florida State in Tallahassee.  That was a bonus.

       Years ago we started adding some cultural activities to our trips, like The Martin Luther King Memorial on a prior football trip to Atlanta, The Underground Railroad Museum in Cincinnati, and the Museum of African American History in Detroit.  We also visited the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame in Cleveland, Country Music Hall of Fame in Nashville, Louis Armstrong’s home in Queens, and the Chicago Blues Festival in Grant Park that we just lucked into.

         This year we planned to go to Alabama between baseball games and fill in some more of our Civil Rights Education.  It was a wonderful experience: educational, emotional, and extremely humbling. I hadn’t really put it into historical perspective until the past week when I realized that Saturday was the Sixtieth Anniversary of the Brown v Board of Education case, and this summer is the fiftieth anniversary of the Civil Rights Act.

Leaving Miami, we drove to Montgomery, the primary objective being the Civil Rights Memorial Center, sponsored by the Southern Poverty Law Center.  It was the perfect place to begin, with its video presentation and fountain focusing on the martyrs of the movement.  Then we moved from that tear inducing Theater presentation, into the room with the Wall of Tolerance.  Here visitors are invited to add their names to the thousands who have pledged here to work in their daily lives for justice, equality and human rights – the ideals of the Civil Rights Movement.  Don and I both did so without hesitation.

From there, we walked across the street and down the walkway to the Dexter Avenue King Memorial Baptist Church. Sitting almost in the shadow of the Alabama State Capitol building, this is the only church that Martin Luther King, Jr. actually pastored on his own, according to our amazing guide, Rev, Richard Smith, who is Associate Minister there now. This is where King was when Rosa Parks took her defiant seat that led to the 381-day bus boycott that became the Lexington and Concord of the movement. And not insignificantly, it vaulted into national prominence the young pastor of Dexter Avenue Baptist Church.  Rev. Smith walked us through a wonderful mural in the basement of the church that depicts the movement from Rosa Parks in 1955, through the assassination of Dr. King in 1968. This 10 by 47 foot mural was painted in 1980 by John W. Feagin, an artist and a Dexter Deacon.  It was from his office, near this spot on the lower level, that Dr. King directed the bus boycott.

From Rev. Smith we learned about a lot more.  When we told him that we were planning on moving up to Birmingham the next day, he filled us in on that city’s unhappy contributions to the turbulent times.  Probably most distressing was the bombing in the Sunday School at the Sixteenth Street Baptist Church, killing four young girls and injuring many more parishioners.  Birmingham was also the site of vicious attacks by police and dogs on peaceful protestors. But from its jail cell, Rev. King wrote the letter that is the blueprint for ultimate victory of non-violent resistance over tyranny and brutality.

We found Birmingham to be up to its billing, steeped in the history of the movement, and now making peace with its past.  The Kelly Ingram Park, scene of some of the most brutal attacks, has become a park dedicated to Peace, with sculpture and commemorative markers inviting visitors to contemplate, remember, and dedicate themselves, as at the Civil Rights Memorial in Montgomery, to a peaceful, respectful future.  The Sixteenth Street Baptist Church, now beautifully rebuilt, has a section near where the bombs exploded, set aside for quiet reflection and remembrance. The Sanctuary has a stained glass window, a gift from the people of Wales after the bombing, of Jesus on the cross with the words, “You do it unto me.”  The Civil Rights Institute, across the street from the Church, has a comprehensive Museum, including parts of the cell in which Dr. King wrote the “Letter from Birmingham Jail.” 

Don and I talked about the reason we feel such a strong desire to relive this history, wherever we find it.  Both of us wish we had participated in some substantive way.  But we just did not know at the time, or we were too young to feel that we could make a difference. I think we feel guilt, even though we never intentionally hurt anyone or witnessed any racial violence or oppression. We were born and raised in Virginia, a Southern State, but none of these things went on around our hometown of Salem. I wonder if the guilt we feel is similar to what the German people feel when they visit a Concentration Camp or the Holocaust Museum:  “I didn’t do it, but I didn’t do anything to prevent it either.”

       Since I was raised in the mid-twentieth century South, attended schools there and soaked up its culture, I have thought there are many ways in which the South is more racially integrated than the North.  People of both races shared the poverty and economic powerlessness, which followed the Civil War through the reconstruction period.  There is a close cultural kinship between the races, which is expressed largely through music and religion.  However, Brown v. Board of Education took at least ten years to find its way into the Roanoke Valley of Virginia, and as a consequence I never attended any elementary or secondary schools with people of African heritage.  It was while I was a student at the University of Virginia that I first came to understand the urgency of Martin Luther King’s campaign for the rights of black Americans. The Council on Human Relations at the University sponsored two lectures on the subject: first, Dr. King and then, in stark contrast thereto, George Lincoln Rockwell, who was then head of the American Nazi Party.  Ever since that experience, I have been a strong advocate of freedom of speech and the free marketplace of ideas: until I heard Rockwell, I did not know the extent to which the civil rights movement needed to be.  It wasn’t difficult to choose sides after that.

Now I have an even greater understanding, because of my trips to the various Civil Rights Memorial venues.  I get choked up when I see pictures of the little bombing victims in Birmingham, one of whom was named Addie, our mother’s name, and the shortened version of my granddaughter’s.  The Civil Rights martyrs are more real to me now, and their sacrifices more obviously precious.  And I will speak out in opposition to losing ground in making America live up to its creed, even when - ESPECIALLY When - it’s the current Supreme Court letting the clock roll back on voting rights and affirmative action.  We can do better, because we have done better.  I would love to see the name of Antonin Scalia on the SPLC Wall of Tolerance.  If some of the members of our highest court are not committed to justice, equality and human rights, it isn’t the first time in our history (e.g. Taney and the Dred Scott decision; Plessy v. Ferguson; Korematsu).  But it is most definitely a path in the wrong direction and a further injury to the incredibly brave people who have lived and died for these principles.

The baseball trip was great!  Each of the Major League Home Teams won, either breaking a tie or coming from behind in the last inning to send their faithful fans home happy.  Better yet, the one home team that did not win was Florida State, losing in the 10th inning to nationally ranked number one – Virginia.  So a big Wahoo Wa was exchanged by the fifty to one hundred Virginia fans in Dick Howser Stadium on the Florida State Campus.  And I think the fact that my car battery was dead when we got back to the parking lot was probably a coincidence.

I feel that my soul has been expanded by this experience, beyond even my great expectations.  When we get out to Texas and Arizona next year, I don’t know what we may find that might be similarly inspiring.  But whether we just luck into it, or have to drive a couple days out of the way to find it, it will definitely be worth it.

Dennis Clower

May, 2014

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